The Almost Old Bottle Tasting

The Almost Old Bottle Tasting: Rude Tasters May 17, 2017

Written by guest blogger Tony Senna with contributions by Dr. Ed Cox

What happens when tasters each with 40+ years experience are simply told to bring an old or interesting bottle for a blind tasting?  Chaos? Continuity?   We had a chance to find out at Durk and Kathy Piersma’s home this time around.  In the past, this annual event always pitted member’s oldest bottles retrieved from the cobweb regions of their wine cellars against one another.   This time around, any wine “old or unusual” would be appropriate.   As you’ll see from the results, a group of wines as varied as the individuals with scores to match.

In the usual custom, as we gather, there are two blind “warm up” wines.  We later found out they were a variation on an old trick; the same wine in two different bottles, but, this time not exactly the same wine.   The group is fortunate to have three winemakers in its ranks, Brian Cain and Tom and Kim LeRoux.  Often, they work side by side, however, for these two bottles, Brian’s abilities were part of the wine, but Tom and Kim were the principal winemakers.

Tom and Kim brought the two warm-up wines from their own “Vineyard LeRoux”.   Both were primarily the Marquette grape from the 2015 vintage, with Kim the primary winemaker.   The wine in both bottles spent over a year in the same new, heavily toasted, Missouri white oak, air-dried barrel.  The wine in the first bottle got additional lightly toasted oak pellets custom toasted by Tom.   The first had a uniquely savory nose with rich grapey flavors.  It had less edge than a Frontenac and seemed more “restrained” than a Cabernet Franc, but still stood out as a hearty oaked Michigan wine.   The second had a lighter nose with a background of toasted oak aromas.  It seemed slightly more tart, but still with a grapey freshness and a generally smoother overall feel to the finish.   Although a group vote wasn’t taken, several tasters remarked that the differences in oak treatment made the two wines seem almost like different wines.  It was my impression that those who prefer more bright fresh bold grape flavors preferred the first and those who prefer a more subdued and wood-integrated experience preferred the second.  (Editor’s Note:  In my June blog, I will be posting a recap of experiments and experiences that the LeRoux’s and I have had over the past several decades with barrels and wood beans.  MICHIGAN VINTNER)

As always, we taste the wines double blind.  In this instance, not even our hosts knew what was in the brown bags.  Though we score on a 10 point scale, I have converted them to a 100 point scale for easy reference to most other judging systems.  Group rank is out of nine wines with a 1st being the best liked wine and a 9th being the least liked.

FIRST FLIGHT         

2009 Rasa Syrah, Doctrina Perpetua, Bacchus Vineyard, Columbia Valley, Washington An inky, dark appearance in the glass with volatile dark plum-like aromas; a bit of an iodine component in the flavors and bright acidic feel in the mouth to lift the fruit.  Perhaps the acid feel is also alcohol?   It seemed too out of balance to me.   ABV 15.8%, price $48.  My score 79 points, group score 78 points, 8th place.

2013 Chateau Grand Traverse, Silhouette Red Blend, Michigan Dark in the glass though not inky.   A bright spicy nose carries through to the flavors, though it relies on a definite wood component for the mouth feel.  The appellation is simply Michigan for 2013 (normally Old Mission Peninsula appellation) which may explain the riper heartier structure evidenced here compared to most other wines from Northern Michigan.  ABV 13.2%, price $14.  My score 85 points, group score 80 points, three way tie for 5th place.

1978 Jolie, Medoc, Bordeaux, France Initially sulfurous aromas of burnt sprouts, later dissipating.  However, later on the flavors were still thin, acidic and as Ed put it, “the only saving grace is the alcohol”.  ABV 11.5%, price unrecorded.  My score 65 points, group score 60 points, 9th (last) place.

2013 Apothic Dark Red Blend, California Dark and dense appearance in the glass with soft fruit aromas of plums and blackberries to match; a full and balanced fruit/acid mouth feel with some spice and mild tannins complete the palate finishing nicely.   This wine scored highly at our previous tasting a couple of years ago and was clearly well liked again.  ABV 13.5%, price $10.  My score 95 points, group score 91 points, 2nd place.

SECOND FLIGHT

2000 Chateau Duhart Milon Rothschild, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France Smoky overtones to an otherwise bright fruity nose while light on the tongue with a low acid feel and a green olive finish.  Perhaps a bit flabby overall but still a desirable wine.  ABV 12.5%, original price $27. My score 84 points, group score 84 points, 4th place.

1985 Santerra Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma/Napa), California It has a raisiny rich fruit nose though the richness does not carry through to the flavor.   It seems fatigued and a bit past its peak, though the member who brought it said the reviews when released claimed its best drinking should include a couple more years yet.  ABV 12.8%, original price $50.  My score 79 points, group score 80 points, three way tie for 5th place.

2004 Brys Estate Signature Red (Cabernet Franc/Merlot/Pinot Noir), Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan Fruit elements in the nose are still fresh, with a bit of stem.   Although the fresh fruit still has a pleasantly light presence in the mouth, it has faded and allows the oak flavors to dominate.   Even so, this is an obviously well made wine with artfully balanced fruit/acid/alcohol. ABV 13.6%, original price $40.  My score 87 points, group score 90 points, 3rd place.

1982 Chateau Chasse-Spleen, Moulis-en-Medoc, Bordeaux, France It has a paler color in the glass with smoky toasted balsa wood in the nose.  Though still pleasant to some members, to me the fruit has faded to the point where the wine became too thin and significantly over-wooded.  While there was evidence that it might have been a very nice wine originally, in my opinion this wine has gone south and not just for the winter.  ABV 12%, original price about $20.  My score 78, group score 80 points, three way tie for 5th place.

2000 Chateau Petit-Fombrauge, Grand Cru, St. Emilion,  Bordeaux, France Light fruity aroma in the nose carries hints of clove and cherry flavors.  A nicely balanced albeit thinning mouth feel ends with soft tannin.  There was enough fruit and structure left to say this could be a good example of why quality winemaking matters over time.  ABV 13%, price unrecorded.  My score 90 points, group score 95 points, 1st place.

Finally, presumably if the group hasn’t been too “rude”, the host often brings out another bottle of interest.  Fortunately, we passed the test so Durk and Kathy brought out a 1976 Piesporter Treppchen Riesling Beerenauslese, Weingut Meyerhof.   While a golden color, oxidation was minimal and the sugar/acid balance was intact.   It is a real treat to have something that has aged so well.  This wine was still a sweetly fragrant Riesling with hints of lily now morphing into Sauternes-like depth.  If you have any, open it today.  Tomorrow may be too late!

All in all, the wines were reflective of the group: individuals with diverse tastes coming together to make a harmonious and happy experience!

It is too bad that Brian and Alice were unable to attend.  We hope you enjoy Tony Senna’s account.

Enjoy in Good Health,                                                                            

Brian Cain, the Michigan Vintner